Installation
Home Specifications Happy Spa Ownership Prices Photo Gallery Installation Disclosure Contact Us

 

To see how simple the RockSpoolTM installation is, click on the 3 images below. 

Install pg1-Final.jpg (26266 bytes) Install pg2-Final.jpg (55774 bytes) Install pg3-Final.jpg (94884 bytes)

Would you like a FREE & FAST evaluation of your yard, click on this image and follow the directions. 

RS Photo Locations.jpg (112954 bytes)

You can have the RockSpoolTM installed 3 ways. 

1- Professionally; Installed by a local contractor in you're area. If your the type that would rather pay more and have it professionally installed and just jump in, this may be the best option for you. The prices on the price page include installation. If we don't have an installer in your area yet, we will find one, check them out, and get them all dialed in on all the installation specs. Our requirements are they must be licensed, bonded, insured, and been in business a minimum of 5 years with a good record with the contractors board and the BBB. The truth is these are really are a piece of cake to install for any plumber, electrician or landscaper. We make it very simple, so for the professional these are a breeze.

2- You the customer get involved and act as the general contractor of your project using specialty contractors (plumber, electrician, landscaper) to do the work for you. You can save a few dollars this way and your just a little more involved lining up the contractors that will actually do the work for you. We will assist you with the guys you line up and get them all dialed in on installation so that they will do it right for you.

3- Do It Yourself; This is where you take the bull by the horns , get some exercise and save lots of money! We have a lot of school teachers, fire fighters, contractors, retirees, and handy men and woman, husbands and wives that chose this option. It is a very simple installation and we walk you through it completely so that you completely understand and know how to do everything. Some Do It Yourselfers will use local day labor for some of the more physical parts (digging the hole and trenches) and others may use one or two specialty contractors to some extent for something they don't want to do like hooking up the electricity or gas line. Great way to go if you want to save some money or have some fun with a very satisfying project. 

No matter which way you go we will help you. Also, if your building a home or about to start landscaping a dirt back yard and think you may want to add the RockSpoolTM at a latter date, please contact us so that we can help you make sure you run your gas, electric, and recirculation lines now correctly so that it is easier to add one latter and you don't have to dig up or redo something you just did. 

FYI- For those of you who have installation questions, here are some general notes and guidelines regarding installation that you may find helpful or completely boring.

Electrical requirements; Depends on the equipment you select, which depends on how you want to use your RockSpoolTM. You can run a simple timer and up to a 1HP pump on 110vac 15 amp breaker. For a deluxe package using, for example a Hayward P4 control system that has a build in sub-panel to run extra stuff you might want to use in your backyard, you would need 4- #8 wires (White, Black, Red, & Green) tied into a 50 Amp 220 breaker in your main electric panel. They would be run to the equipment location. The RockSpoolTM  uses very little electricity ($5 per month) unless you are using a electric heater. For a electrically heated package you will need 220vac 75amp run to the equipment location to power a 11KW heater.

Gas pipe sizing; To figure the correct size pipe needed for a 250,000 BTU gas heater, measure from the Natural Gas Meter or Propane tank along the path the gas run is going to be run and add 4' for your ups and downs. Then use the following as a guideline for pipe diameter. For Natural Gas up to a 15' run use 3/4" pipe, 16' to 60' use 1" pipe, 61' to 250' use 1-1/4" pipe, 251' to 500' use 1-1/2" pipe. For Propane up to 40' run use 3/4" pipe, 41' to 150' use 1" pipe. The above is for a dedicated gas line for a 250,000 BTU heater. If you want to also use the same line for a BBQ,  fireplace, tiki torches, or a 400,000 BTU heater, etc., then the line will need to be up-sized according. Please just call or email us and we will be happy to make sure you or your contractor runs the correct size. 

Equipment location; Generally the equipment is placed in your yard on the side of your home, or in a back corner of your yard. The equipment can be placed next to the RockSpoolTM or located up to 120' away from the RockSpoolTM. The factors to take into account when considering equipment location are; a) length of gas & electric runs from the meters to the equipment location. Most contractors include up to 50' electric run and up to 25' or 50' gas run in their standard packages, so keeping your equipment within this distance from your meters will save you money. b) view of equipment from backyard, do you want to hide it from view and if so do you want to use vegetation or put up a wall, etc., c) length of the run from the RockSpoolTM to the equipment. Generally you want to keep the equipment under 100' (30'-60' is ideal) away from the RockSpoolTM, but you can go up to 120' without upsizing the pump. If you want it really far away then we just up size the pump/s and recirculation water lines to make sure you have an adequate flow rate. d) KGB, whops, I mean local building code requirements. Not a big deal just a little more red tape hassle and money. They may want you to have it so many feet from your property line so for a not so good a reason, or tell you you need this or that and you really don't. Again, call us and we will help you with them. Usually a phone call from us or a simple amendment to your drawing will straightens things out for you. e) HOA requirements, these are never a problem, piece of cake. 

Here is what a typical gas heated equipment package looks like. RSEm.JPG (149477 bytes) The heater is the green box on the left, the filter is next to it, the pump is behind the filter and the controller is on the wall.

Permits; Some cities require them, some don't. Some customers get them when their city requires it, some don't. That's up to you, we don't care, as long as it is installed correctly. If your city requires permits and you want to comply with them, the process will add a few hours if your city is easy or a couple of days, weeks, or months to your project if they are one of those cities that "think they are better than the other cities" or they have a bureaucratic problem. 

"Hey honey I will be right back, I am taking in the papers the city wants for our permits! Can you call the chiropractor and setup an appointment for an adjustment? Thanks babe!"

The actual permit costs vary from city to city but usually run around $50 to $500. Depending again on your city's demands, your contractor may have to charge more if you want him to deal with them for you, or he has to make more trips to your jobsite because of the cities requirements. If you want to save some money, we recommend that you take on dealing with the city yourself just for fun and the experience. See where your hard earn tax dollars have gone to work. We have a standing joke that if you get your permit in fewer than 5 trips to the city you are lucky. The truth is for most cities it will only take 1 to 3 trips. We get asked all the time why one city would be easy and fast and another slow and difficult. The answer lies in the fact that all cities building departments are run by good people trying to do their job the best they can, and how the building department management at the top think the building department should be run. To some that means the harder they can make it, well then that means they are doing their job better. No matter which city you live in, and no matter whether your city is tough or easy, we will help you and/or your contractor through the process. There are only 3 permit issues that apply and the 3 inspection types that apply for the RockSpoolTM no matter where you live; 1) gas pipe type, size and depth or height on the wall, 2) electric conduit type, size and depth or height on the wall, and 3) child safety barrier. Any body of water over 18" deep is consider a swimming pool as far as the building codes are concerned. Note the RockSpoolTM itself has nothing on it directly to inspect. Its just the gas, electric, and barrier, that's it. So should you get a permit? Its up to you. We will assist you either way. What is important to us is simply having it installed correctly and safely. Good contractors will do that whether you have a permit or not. Also many cities do not require permits for a what they consider "portable spa's". That means if the gas and electric has already been permitted and run, then the RockSpoolTM at that point can be considered a portable spa, so with a locking cover you don't need to get a pool/spa permit. So if this applies to you, the strategy here is to simple; pull a permit for a gas and electric line run to the backyard (just happens to be the equipment location), list on the permit the gas & electric line is for "future backyard use". Then once the lines are run, inspected, and your permit is finaled, you go into phase 2 of your plan to bring in your "portable" type spa (RockSpoolTM) and hook it up to your already permitted, run and passed inspected gas & electric lines. More than one way to skin a cat!

  Sorry Felix, not talking about you. 

Child safety; There are really 2 sides to this. What your city wants and thinks you need to be safe, and secondly what child safety really is and what you should consider doing in addition to what your city requires based on your circumstances to keep your kids safe. First lets look at what your city will most likely want you to do to pass their building department permit requirements. Generally they want 1 or 2 child barriers or alarms; a perimeter barrier to protect your neighbors kids, and/or an inside barrier or door alarms that protects children inside your home from getting out to it. Most cities allow a locking cover RSTp Cover.JPG (139434 bytes) to be used to meet both the inside and the outside barrier for a spa. Some cites will allow it only for the inside barrier. Some will allow the net cover RSC Net over rock.jpg (180959 bytes) to meet one or both of the barrier requirements. 2) The most important point is, what does it "Really" take to prevent a child from drowning. The answer is "Parental Supervision" and "Parental education and a situational awareness" on pool safety before they get a pool or spa and "effective barriers" . Then you can adopt a safety game plan that will work 100% of the time and keep kids safe. In Phoenix Arizona where it seems like every other house has a pool there are deaths by drowning every year with yards that meet and/or exceed the cities requirements and have both a perimeter fence and a fence around the pool inside the yard and still a child drowns. To understand how this happens we must first of all discuss the difference between pools and spa's. Even thought the building code does not differentiate the difference between shallow ponds, the RockSpoolTM, spas, and swimming pools, swimming pools are different because swimming pools are deeper. They usually start at 3' deep and then get deeper in other parts of the pool. A child or adult that can not swim can drown in a pool because they cannot reach the bottom. This means that children must be supervised or locked out of a swimming pool area until they can swim or are old enough to be responsible. This is very hard to do. Most 10 year boys can jump any barrier fence at will. If they do, and they can't swim, well perhaps another tragedy. Spa's and the RockSpoolTM are different because they are not as deep. When you can stand on the bottom and your mouth is out of the water, guess what, your not likely to drown. The RockSpoolTM is only 30" deep so a 3 year old of normal height can stand on the bottom and their bottom lip is above the waterline. That combined with the fact that most smaller children are watched much more closely by their parents because they are little, makes drowning in any spa much less likely. As the child ages they tend to get supervised less and less and with a spa or the RockSpoolTM even if they get in the water their head is above the waterline so unless they fall and hit their head its pretty hard to drown, but not so with a pool. People of all ages drown in pools because they simply can't touch the bottom, just like in the ocean, lakes, or rivers. Bottom line is that if the child can touch the bottom and have their mouth above waterline, again unless they hit their head or have a heart attack, they are not going to drown in a spa or RockSpoolTM. If they can't touch the bottom and can't swim then the odds are against them. Bottom line is "you" need to do what you think is best to protect your children, in addition to what your city may require. So what to do? If your kids mouths are above 30" or you don't have any children at home anymore or never did, then you may want to only do what is the simplest and cheapest way to comply with your cities wishes. If you have small children, and tend to be very busy at home or neglectful, then use 3 or more methods (perimeter fence, solid or removable inside fence, netting, door alarms, etc., to protect the kids. If you have small children or grandchildren please call us and we will have a in-depth conversation with you on your situation and discuss your options to keep them safe. For me, when I have grandkids, if they are going to be here for more than a day at a time I will use 4 systems. If I have them for only a few hours and an occasional day at most, I will use only 2. If I lost a child under my care I would sell everything I have and live on the streets to bring that child back Fortunately its really very simple to keep them safe. If this applies to you lets talk. Lets keep the kids safe.